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From
the moment you enter Marisol, it’s clear you’re in a temple of
haute cuisine. As soon as you sit down you’re presented with
an extensive hardback-bound wine list and the news that an
“amuse-bouche” (French for “to amuse the mouth”) is on the
way. Your friendly waiter promptly presents you with a
solitary dressed mussel with a cherry vinaigrette, sitting in
the middle of a huge plate, dusted with a flurry of fresh
parsley flakes. I was, in fact amused, an so was my
palate. It’s only after you’ve slurped that down,
lathered the herb-crusted focaccia with sweet butter and
ordered wine (if you choose to and it’s pretty hard to resist)
that the menus come.
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Greensboro-Marisol: The name conjures images of sea
and sun; of the south of France, perhaps. Marisol the
restaurant may not be sun-washed or sea-drenched, but it comes
pretty close to serving the best food around these
parts. Some of the food is French in influence, but the
cuisine of Chef Stephen Schneider traverses continents, and
the offerings at his restaurant are deliciously impossible to
pigeonhole. This restaurant cuts no corners on preparation:
Sauces-of-ten made with deep stock reductions are top notch
and menu selections are superb. Before you even look at the
menu though, you’re presented with a little amuse-bouche or
“mouth amusement”. Recently, it was a tiny calamari
salad with a garlicky lemon-wasabi vinaigrette, a little burst
of flavor to set the taste buds tingling.
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From
the beginning, I have considered chef-proprietor Stephen
Schneider one of the most talented restauranteurs in our
area. But in the early days, I thought he needed the
services of a good editor, just as any precocious talent
benefits from constructive reflection. Through the years, his
imagination has remained fertile, while his conception of what
people enjoy (which is not always in harmony with what
brilliant chefs create) has been refined. I think he is,
figuratively speaking, at the top of his game now. As a
matter of fact, during these meals, I thought he was at the
top of everybody’s game. The name Marisol comes from a blend
of sea and sunlight. The restaurant’s motto, “Live, Love,
Eat” is reflected in every aspect of the experience.
Seating in the main dining area creates a café ambience.
When full, however, noise is a problem, although not as much
as in common in our area. A separate piano bar with
leather sofa seating rounds out one of the most romantic and
sophisticated looks in the Triad.
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